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Welcome to EcoTech LLC's "FAQ" resource. We hope that you'll find the answers to some of the most common questions pertaining to our industry. Feel free to contact us if you cannot find the answer you are looking for. We will be updating this section frequently with new information, so check back regularly.

Radon | Oil Tanks | Stormwater Monitoring | Well Testing | Lead

Radon

What is radon?

Radon is an odorless, colorless, tasteless radioactive gas that is released when uranium in rocks, soil and water decays. There are no warning signs of radon exposure. Present in very low concentrations in outdoor air, radon concentrates in buildings by entering through cracks in basement concrete, holes around pipes and conduit and/or air rising from crawlspaces. Although rare, well water can also be a source of indoor radon.

Radon in the northwest Oregon and southwest Washington areas is largely caused by the deposition of granites and other uranium and radium containing soils and rocks over 12,000 years ago during a series of floods. Known as the Missoula Floods, boulders and soils from Canada were deposited here during floods caused when glaciers blocking valleys in Montana broke, releasing huge quantities of water that had built up behind the great icy dams. The resulting flood scoured out the walls of the Columbia River gorge, flooded the Portland area under 400-feet of water, flooded the Willamette and Tualatin Valleys and deposited the soils and rocks we see today below 500-feet.

How dangerous is radon?

When inhaled, alpha particles from decaying radon can damage lung cells. According to the National Academy of Sciences, radon causes an estimated 15,000-22,000 lung cancer deaths per year in the United States. By comparison, drunk driving is responsible for about 12,000 deaths per year. Pets can also be affected by high radon concentrations.

Is radon common in Oregon and southwest Washington?

High radon concentrations have been found in every neighborhood. However, homes in some areas have a much greater risk of having high radon levels. North and northeast Portland, Clark County Washington and west Salem, for example, are areas where nearly 50% of the homes tested have indoor radon concentrations exceed EPA’s recommended action level of 4 picocuries per liter of air (pCi/L). The only way to know if you are being exposed to dangerous radon concentrations at home is to test your house.

Are children more susceptible to radon?

Yes. Children are more sensitive to radon because their lungs are
smaller and their respiratory rates are twice as high. Doctors say
that, by the age of 10, a child receives twice the lung dose of an
adult who’s been exposed to radon for the same length of time.

Should I test my home for radon?

The Surgeon General and EPA recommend that every home be tested for radon. Affordable and easy to do, radon testing can be done by a professional or homeowner. Short-term tests can be as brief as 2-days. Radon levels fluctuate day-to-day and season-to season. Therefore, long-term testing provides a more accurate exposure average. Radon test kits can be purchased at most hardware stores and cost $15-$35. Follow the directions carefully. Professional measuring typically costs $125-$195.

The radon levels in my home tested high, now what should I do?

If the test was short-term and below 10 pCi/L, retest in the same location with a long-term test device to determine the long-term concentration. If the initial test exceeds 10 pCi/L, retest in the same location with a short-term device. Radon mitigation should be performed if the average of two short-term tests or one long-term test is at or above 4 pCi/L.

What should I know about radon when purchasing or selling a home?

A buyer or buyer’s agent should ask the seller for radon test information. If known, sellers are required by Oregon law to disclose radon levels. A certified radon measuring professional should be hired to conduct a test if the seller does not have third-party radon results. Two short-term testing devices are deployed simultaneously during a real estate transaction. The protocol for real estate transactions is to locate the measuring devices in the lowest potentially lived in area, i.e. an unfinished basement. If the radon concentration exceeds 4 pCi/L, mitigation is recommended.

What is radon mitigation?

Radon mitigation involves reducing the radon level to below 4 pCi/L by preventing radon entry into the building. While there many methods, the most common and cost-effective is a process called active soil depressurization (ASD). Using suction pipes and an inline fan, an ASD system creates a vacuum beneath the basement floor, concrete slab, or crawlspace to intercept and route the radon around the habitable area of the home. Installation of a residential ASD system typically costs $800 - $3,000 and should include a guarantee to reduce radon concentrations to below 4 pCi/L. Annual operating costs are as little as $50 and as much as $200, depending on heating/cooling loss and local energy costs. Warning: radon mitigation systems can create dangerous back draft conditions in improperly exhausted gas furnaces and hot water heaters. Make sure your mitigation contractor tests for appliance back drafting before permanently switching on the system.

Will opening my windows solve my radon problem?

Probably, but only if you kept your windows open 24-hours a day 365-days a year. However, the additional cost to heat the house would more than pay for a mitigation in the mid-term.

How can I find a reliable radon measuring or mitigation contractor?

Do your homework. Use only a certified radon contractor in good standing with your state’s contractor board. The National Environmental Health Association’s (NEHA) National Radon Proficiency Program (800-269-4174 or online at www.radongas.org) the National Radon Safety Board (866-329-3474 or online at www.nrsb.org) train, certify, and maintain updated lists of certified radon measuring and mitigation contractors. EcoTech’s Don Francis and Neal Correy have been trained and Certified by NEHA to measure and mitigate radon.  EcoTech is a member of the American Association of Radon Scientists and Technologists.

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Oil Tanks

What does Oregon law require an owner to do with an underground heating oil tank in the yard?

If the tank is no longer in use, the contents of the tank must be pumped out. Oregon law does not require property owners to decommission or test residential tanks for leaks. If the tank has leaked, or is suspected to be leaking, the Oregon Department of Environmental Quality (DEQ) must be notified. DEQ will require the property owner to have a cleanup performed. If you are selling your home, Oregon law requires you to disclose the presence of an underground oil tank to the buyer.

For those buying an older home, how can they be sure there’s not an abandoned heating oil tank buried in the yard or under a new addition?

There is no foolproof method to prove that there is not an abandoned tank buried in the yard. However, a number of resources are available to help you find a tank, if present. Start by asking your inspector to look for obvious indications of a tank, such as a vent or fill-pipe outside the home, or copper or steel oil supply lines in a basement wall, crawl space or basement floor.

No obvious signs of a tank? Many heating oil tank contractors will provide a tank search for no charge or for a small fee.

For those buying a home with a tank buried in the yard, how can they be sure the tank has not leaked?

Approximately a third to a half of all underground residential tanks in Oregon have leaked. Because cleanups are sometimes very expensive, it is important for buyers to protect themselves from purchasing a property with a leaking tank.

When performed properly, soil testing is the most reliable method for detecting a leaking tank system. A DEQ-licensed contractor should be hired to collect soil from beneath both ends of the tank. Each sample should be analyzed at an independent laboratory. The cost for soil sampling with independent lab analysis generally costs between $200 and $300.

What should those who are selling a home do about an underground tank?

A purchase offer contingent on clean soil samples can unravel if soil contamination is discovered. Therefore, many sellers choose to have soil samples collected prior to listing their houses. This applies to both in-service and out-of-service tanks. If the tank has leaked, there is plenty of time to take care of it before offers are made. If testing shows no evidence of leakage, documentation can be presented to a prospective buyer, eliminating the tank as a concern.

It is wise to consult with your real estate agent before deciding when to sample the soil around your tank.

If the tank leaks, how much will cleanup cost?

Cleanup costs vary according to the severity of the problem. In the past, cleanup rules required the removal of accessible contaminated soil. Balancing the protection of human health and the environment with consumer costs, DEQ created less costly cleanup options. Today, in most situations, a risk assessment can be performed demonstrating compliance with Oregon law without the removal of contaminated soil. Risk assessment and tank decommissioning usually costs less than $3,000.

Although uncommon, highly contaminated sites may require contaminated soil removal and disposal. In some instances, groundwater may also be contaminated, requiring groundwater testing and risk assessment. Cleanup costs for highly contaminated properties can range from $4,500 to $6,000. Complicated cleanups, such as those requiring soil removal and involving groundwater contamination, can cost upwards of $10,000.

What about purchasing a new oil furnace and replacing the old tank?

Most replacement tanks are installed above ground. They are less likely to leak and any problems can easily be spotted with a periodic inspection. Above-ground tanks usually have a 275-gallon capacity and are installed either in the yard or basement.

Most local governments require that above-ground tank installations comply with seismic codes to reduce the likelihood that the tank will tip and spill during an earthquake. Protect yourself by making sure your contractor installs your tank in compliance with local codes and obtains an approved mechanical permit, if applicable.

Is there financial assistance available to help pay for cleanup and tank replacement costs?

Homeowner's insurance may cover some or all of the cleanup costs. Insurance coverage varies by company, situation and policy type. Carefully read the exclusion portions (what the company will not cover) of your insurance policy, paying close attention to terms such as “contamination” or “pollution.” Also, call your insurance agent and ask to speak to an adjuster.

Another option is a cleanup and/or tank replacement service agreement offered by some oil suppliers. Check with your oil distributor for details.
Carefully read the limitations section of every contract. In cases where tanks are discovered to have leaked after a property has been bought, a previous property owner may have legal responsibility for cleanup costs. If you decide to seek legal help, find an attorney experienced in litigating underground storage tank cases. Ask your tank contractor and real estate agent for referrals.

How can I find a reliable tank contractor?

Unfortunately, many tank owners have had work performed, only to later learn it was done inadequately. In such cases, additional work is often necessary to comply with DEQ rules, costing more money. Educate yourself about residential tanks.

There are dozens of certified contractors in the state, with widely varying experience and qualifications. A complete list of DEQ licensed heating oil tank service providers is available from DEQ at 800-742-7878, or on the Web at www.deq.state.or.us/lq/tanks/hot/homeowners.htm.

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Stormwater Monitoring

What is Stormwater?

Stormwater is rain, snow, and sleet that travels down our gutter into the storm drain, flowing directly into our rivers, lakes, and streams. It’s never treated, so everything storm water collects as it travels down the storm drain ends up in our local waterways.

Why should I care what goes down the storm drain?

Everyone should be concerned about storm water quality because what we put down the storm drain will eventually end up in our regional waterways. Read on for a more detailed explanation about why grass clippings, etc are so harmful to stormwater.

What can I do to make a difference at home?

Amazingly enough you can make a huge difference in stormwater quality by simply changing a few practices at home. Here are six easy steps; 1) Wash your car on the lawn, 2) Mulch your grass clippings and leave on the lawn, 3) sweep dirt onto the lawn, pick up debris and put in the trash, 4) pick up your pet waste; flush in the toilet or bag, 5) target your use of fertilizers and sweep up excess, and 6) Target use of pesticides/herbicides to your lawn and garden and take left over chemicals to a Hazardous Waste facility.

Which is more harmful oil or grass clippings?

If you were to pour a quart of oil and a bag of grass clipping down the storm drain at the same time clearly the oil would be the most harmful to storm water. However, most people know not to pour oil down the storm drain but don’t think twice about hosing their yard waste down the storm drain. And when you examine the overall cumulative effect of thousands of people sending their grass clippings down the storm drain versus the few who put oil down the drain it becomes one of the top pollutants of storm water.

How does pet waste left on the grass affect storm water?

Pet waste can be picked up by rain as it travels down the storm drain carrying with it bacteria and other harmful materials into streams.

Why are grass clippings harmful to stormwater?

Yard waste contributes nutrients, such as nitrogen and phosphorous, which cause unwanted and uncontrolled growth of algae and aquatic weeds.

Is it okay to wash my car on the driveway if I use a biodegradable soap?

No. Cleaning products even if they are biodegradable can still be toxic to fish and stimulate algae in plant growth which impact animal life.

Is it okay to sweep or water down the dirt, grass and/or other natural elements down the storm drain?

Actually dirt can clog spawning areas for fish and cover the water channel floor resulting in fish food being covered and the fish unable to sustain life.

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Well Testing

What is domestic well testing?

Domestic well testing is the process of having a laboratory test water from an individual private well for both nitrate and coliform bacteria before the house served by that well is sold.

Are there legal responsibilities?

Yes. There is an Oregon law, ORS 448.271, which requires testing of domestic well water for real estate transaction. Effective since July 24, 1989, this law states in part:

"(1) In any transaction for the sale or exchange of real estate that includes a well that supplies groundwater for domestic purposes, the seller of the real estate shall, upon accepting an offer to purchase that real estate, have the well tested for nitrate and total coliform bacteria. The Health Services also may require additional tests for specific contaminants in an area of groundwater concern or groundwater management area. The seller shall submit the results of the test required under this section to the Health Services."

Oregon Administrative Rule 333-61-305 to 333-61-335 further defines the actions the seller must take.

Who needs to comply?

The seller of the real estate is responsible. However, the seller may designate their attorney, real estate agent or broker, the laboratory person conducting the water testing, or a private party to assist them in complying with water testing and reporting requirements.

What data must the seller report to the Health Services?

The seller must report specific information about the well. To assure all necessary information is provided, the seller should complete a Domestic Well Testing For Real Estate Transaction form. Blank forms are available from real estate offices or the Oregon Health Services Drinking Water Program.

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Lead

What risks does lead pose in the home?

Lead was restricted in house paint in 1978. Houses built before that time may have been painted with lead-based paint. Housing built before 1950 is very likely to have lead-paint. When children are lead-poisoned, it is usually from lead-contaminated dust. Most lead dust comes from lead-based paint that is in bad condition, such as peeling, chalking, or flaking. Outside, old paint can get into the soil and then people or pets can track it indoors. Windows that rub, doors that slam, and stairs and porches are common sources of lead dust if they have lead paint on them.

Lead can harm anyone who swallows or breathes it. A pregnant woman can pass lead from her blood to her unborn baby. Lead is a special danger for children under six years of age. It can damage the brain, nerves, blood, and other parts of the body.

How can I tell if the lead is a hazard in my home?

The surest method is to use the services of a certified lead-based paint inspector and risk assessor. An inspector can tell you if there is lead in the home; a risk assessor can tell you the extent of the hazard.

There is lead in my home and I am planning to remodel/repair it. What precautions should I take?

Handle with care. Once released into the environment, lead doesn't break down because it is elemental. And its dust can be invisible to the eye and still cause severe injuries to small children. Whether you are planning to do the work yourself, or to hire a professional, it is important that you educate yourself about how 'lead-safe' remodeling can be done. Ask your remodeler before the work starts what he or she knows about lead-safe remodeling and the steps that he or she plan to take to reduce or eliminate lead-based paint hazards during the job.

I just rented an old house and moved in last week. I have little kids. The landlord had me sign a paper saying that there is no lead in the house, but I took one of those lead checks and tested a wall and it turned pink!! What do I do?

Very likely the paper the landlord asked you to sign was a standard Disclosure form, as required under Federal law. (The landlord was also required to give you a pamphlet entitled "Protect Your Family from Lead in Your Home"). According to the Federal law, the landlord is only required to disclose to you any knowledge that he or she has of lead-based paint (LBP) in the house. If he/she has no knowledge of LBP, he/she is not required to conduct an inspection or make a special effort to find out if lead based paint is present. The only obligation is to disclose current knowledge.

The lead-check tester is only a crude screening device. It doesn't tell you what kind of concentration the lead paint is present in, nor how extensive it is. If you want to know these things for sure, you can hire a certified lead inspector or risk assessor and Health Services can provide you with a list of these professionals.

All things being equal, you probably have lead paint in the house. The older the dwelling the greater the likelihood. Houses built before 1950 generally were painted with lead based paints.

However, lead based paint that is in good condition -- is not peeling, cracking, chalking, etc. -- is typically not a hazard. It is important, however, to watch friction and impact surfaces -- such as windows, doors, porches, stair treads. These have a tendency to create lead dust.

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